Seafood has long been a part of life in North Carolina at least according to my telling of the story. I am pretty sure I started eating seafood at the beach as soon as I could chew solid food. By the time I moved to Mount Airy in 1963, wherever I was home we would go to the small seafood restaurant run by a German fellow whose name escapes me. It was on the outskirts of town and was only open Thursdays through Saturday. While it was not a real fish camp, it operated similarly. Aside from a hamburger, the only thing on the menu was fish, shrimp, oysters, or the strange little stuffed crab shells.
I loved the fried flounder and the fried oysters but they would also sell you a Captain’s plate with three choices of food so it
was easy to get some Calabash shrimp if you really want to have a feast. You could get baked or fried potatoes with slaw and hush puppies. The tables in the restaurant were all long, designed to accommodate families with some friends. We were often joined by friends or other relatives.
Restaurants like this one would arrange to have fresh seafood brought up from the coast on Wednesdays. Some of the owners went to get the seafood themselves. They knew the fish houses that could be counted on to provide the freshest fish. All the restaurants had similar menus. They were not many places in Piedmont North Carolina without one of these restaurants an hour or so away.
The original fish camps were close to water and run by fisherman looking for a better way to sell their catch. The fried seafood was so popular that seafood restaurants with the same menu became very popular. My first real memory of a fried seafood emporium was in the summer of 1969. My uncle and I had gone down to Morehead City to do some surf fishing. The only bridge to Bogue Banks was there. Once we crossed, the roads ran out quickly and we drove my Bronco eighteen miles down the beach to the Point at Emerald Isle. It was midsummer so it was not real surprise that we caught almost nothing.
After reversing our trip on the beach and crossing the bridge from Atlantic Beach to Morehead City, we stopped at Captain Bill’s on the Morehead waterfront. We had a feast that I still remember well even the traditional lemon pie that follower. Later that summer I was camping on Ocracoke Island. Instead of going home by catching the short ferry and driving north to Nag Head, I took the long Cedar Island Ferry and eventually ended up in Morehead City where I filled my coolers with flounder and shrimp.
That was the summer that I learned how to cook flounder. My mother also shared the family hush puppy recipe. I learned that the biggest challenge of making small batch hush puppies is cooking them fast enough to stay ahead of the ones being eaten.
In our years down on the coast we tended to favor flounder that I caught and cooked or flounder that I bought from our local fish house, Clyde Phillips Seafood.
When friends visited we would sometimes visit one of the local fried fish houses. The most iconic would be T&Ws Oyster House which opened in 1971. The flounder is unlikely to be local and it might be a little heavier on the breading that what I would cook, but you can be sure that you will gotten a taste of the what fish houses are all about in North Carolina.
Just to get you in the mood for some fried flounder, here is our family's hush puppy recipe.
Most of the Hush Puppies that we get in restaurants are heavy and not anywhere close to the light fluffy ones that mom taught me to make.
The recipe is pretty simple.
One cup of self rising cornmeal,
One half cup of self rising flour,
One teaspoon of sugar,
One finely chopped small onion,
One cup of milk
Mix all the ingredients together.
Heat in a small heavy sauce pan three inches of Wesson oil until it is hot
Fill a coffee mug with cold water
Take a soup spoon, wet it in your coffee mug of cold water, dip it in your mixture so you have about enough mixture to cover about one third of the spoon lengthwise.
Carefully let it slide into hot oil. If your oil is the correct temperature, there will be lots of bubbles around the hush puppy. If you take a long handled metal slotted spoon and touch the just dropped hush puppy which will sink to bottom of the pan, it should rise to the surface easily.
If the oil isn't hot enough, just keep trying. When the oil is the proper temperature, the dropped mixture will bob to the top of oil with very little encouragement. Turn the hush puppies until they are golden brown and place them on a platter with paper towels.
It takes a little practice, but it isn't that difficult. They are best done in small batches. You're working with very hot oil so be very careful and keep kids away from the cooking. Don't be surprised if for the first few minutes, the hush puppies keep disappearing. The recipe makes enough for a huge crowd, probably four dozen or more hush puppies. It does make something of a mess, but the good hush puppies are worth it.